|The village of Chablis lies at the foot of its Grand Cru vineyards|
Chablis has never been easy. First of all, the real thing is made from chardonnay grapes, not whatever white juice Almaden happens to have on hand. Secondly, it comes in a wide variety of styles, from unoaked to oaky, from fresh to musky. But the very best examples retain a refreshing flintiness that comes from the Kimmeridgean clay soil that erupts around the village of Chablis itself.
A terrific article by Eric Pfanner in the New York Times this morning about two "new" Chablis producers. A terrific line, too, about the insularity of wine growers:"In these parts, even the dogs can pick out Paris license plates."
Chablis is technically part of Burgundy, and its compact vineyards make a great "first stop" on the way from Paris to Beaune.
|Domaine Laroche wines in the winery's restaurant.|