Monday, April 2, 2012

Will the real Chablis please stand up?

The village of Chablis lies at the foot of its Grand Cru vineyards
Chablis has never been easy. First of all, the real thing is made from chardonnay grapes, not whatever white juice Almaden happens to have on hand. Secondly, it comes in a wide variety of styles, from unoaked to oaky, from fresh to musky. But the very best examples retain a refreshing flintiness that comes from the Kimmeridgean clay soil that erupts around the village of Chablis itself.

A terrific article by Eric Pfanner in the New York Times this morning about two "new" Chablis producers. A terrific line, too, about the insularity of wine growers:"In these parts, even the dogs can pick out Paris license plates."

Chablis is technically part of Burgundy, and its compact vineyards make a great "first stop" on the way from Paris to Beaune.

Domaine Laroche wines in the winery's restaurant.

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